Norway 2010: Ice climbing

A fellow instuctor down the local wall- Elaine and I headed over to Rjukan in Norway to experience ice climbing for the first time.

Rjukan valley

We were lucky enough to have great conditions very early on in the season in December.  I had never seen icickles like it...

Playing some tunes

Crampon tehcnique took a bit of getting used to to compared with toe placements typical of rock climbing, but the ice axe swing came quite naturally to me and I found it easier to feel when I had a good ice placement (with a deep thud!) than i had expected.

I found the lack of day light a bit weird and I did find myself of dreaming of sport climbing in a bikini on occasions where my my feet and hands were in agony from the cold.  That said I had a great time and I think ice climbing is something I would definately like to pursue in the UK when the conditions come in, its just a shame its a seasonal sport.

Kalymnos 2010

Having heard and read about kalymnos I was desperate to head out there after a pretty tough year (final year PhD) and I was looking to get my first 7a onsite but have a nice relaxed holiday at the same time.  We headed out as a three (Collette, Chris and I) on a two-week trip.  I had a good deal compromising to climb all morning till around 1/2 and then sunbathe (and read the guide for the next days climbs) for the afternoons. Chris came to watch climbing for one day and decided he wasnt really interested in watching whilst dodging rocks and snakes.

Scooter and sceeter; the only way to travel in Kalymnos

Kalymnos seemed to have it all slabs, steeper stuff and massive roof sections.  Grande Grotta was my favourite crag and a crag I will come back to once I have trained for endurance and power considerably more!
It was fustrating I took a couple of stops on the famous DNA (7a i think) of grande grotta due to a bit of a strangely placed bolt, but it was enjoyable nevertheless.

Grande grotta: DNA  7a - seconding to get my quickdraws back

Lowering off grande grotta

Crags such as Kastelli and dolphin bay were great for Collette for the grades and we ticked off all the routes at these crags over the trip. 

Victory shot after the scramble up to the top of Kastelli

Luckily as scooter and sceeter we were able to get to plenty of crags further out form Massouri, such as sybelgades rocks which had some memorable low grade 3d routes.  It was great to get out to more isolated crags and scrambling up rocks for some good views.

Nice view of Telendos during an evening climb

Possibly my first 7a+ onsite route?!

I did manage to achieve a first 7a onsite, but then when i checked the guidebook realised this included a 7a+ extension which i was thrilled with!

Some well-earned cocktails at the scorpion bar