Last time we went to Kalymnos 3 years ago I left feeling inspired to train harder so I could return to try harder overhaning routes which I had felt were beyond me at the time. My agenda for this trip was to try and get on more routes above my limit (armed with mallions) and to clock up onsites at my limit and try to push for a first 7b onsite. Although if you ask Coll, this wasn't really meant to be a "climbing trip"...
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| Spartacus 7b+ |
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| Spartacus 7b+, daniboy (8a) to the left |
Although we wanted to explore new crags we did re-visit some crags form our previous trip. It was pleasing to see progress from 3 years ago. This was most evident at sector Arhi. Here I breezed up Kastor (7a) which I had to take 2 stops on 3 years ago.
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| Kerveros 7a onsite, Spartacus |
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| Dafni 6c+ onsite at Ghosts Kitchen |
A 7b onsite did evade this trip me but trying harder routes I found that i was losing the onsights because of my route reading more than anything else!
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| Red monkey 7a, Upper Cave |
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| Helios 8a+, North Cape |
In grande grotta I had wanted to try Aegalis 7c+ but it was really dissapointing to see the place packed! Whats more some guys on Aegalis said the bolts were lose and they were fixing the top anchor- this put me right off! The only route I was able to get on was Ivi 7a+ (groups were hogging all other lines) which was great but it was fustrating that I wasnt able to do any other routes here!
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| Ivi 7a+, Grande Grotta |
The highlight of this trip has to be getting on Daniboy (8a) at sector Spartacus. I first heard of this route online and I had seen a couple of videos of people sending the route. It looked like the exact type of route which motivates me and seemed like a perfect 8a for me to try.
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| The start of Daniboy |
Once I found this route, it did not disappoint! Right from the start the it was challenging. I took a first rest just under half way coming out of the cave, I felt this was more for nerves as there were plenty of holds. As I came over the lip I found myself at a bolt but unable to clip and as i moved out left i slipped and took a huge whipper. Once I got back on and made it past this stage I think it was definately the crux. Past here I really enjoyed the last section of the climb, two monos, a tufa.... and I was delighted to reach the lower off. My first 8a. I was really pleased and whats more, I felt that the route was well within my limits. Okay i didnt get an onsite but i am confident that i could red point the route. However as much as i want to climb an 8a (clean) i didnt really want to spend the trip trying to get just one route clean, plus Coll was not too pleased with the walk in to this sector!
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| Dani boy 8a |
This was another great trip, time to get looking for flights back out there!
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| Cocktails! |
