Croatia

So Croatia wasn't meant to be a climbing trip but seeing as there was climbing in Split it would be rude not to! Split itself was a bustling historic and picturesque town. The old town was the Diodectians palace, made up of a maze of alleyways to get lost in. Just out from the town was Marjan hill? this is a hill of woodland which included a cliff of around 80 sport climbs in a tranquil setting overlooking the sea, a nice contrast to the centre of Split. Without a topo we just turned up and climbed routes which took our fancy! There was a range of different styles of climbs, and as usual I loved some of the overhanging lines.

Coll on an unknown route

Coll on unknown route

Post climbing rest

Portland in the van

The premier sport climbing area of the South, Portland did not disappoint. I think this was the first time I'd done a climbing trip for 3 days in the UK and my first time sleeping in the back of the van. I think I can blame the combination of both for feeling so tired, or perhaps it's because I can't pace myself!



Paul on Pinning for gossip 7a



We had intended to take it easy on day 1 after the drive down at 5am, but it turned out to be a great day. We found ourselves enjoying the climbing and pushing the grade to more than a gentle warm up. We headed to Blacknor central and before we knew it we had climbed 9 routes including two 6c/6c+ and two 7a onsites.

 

Me leading the climb of the trip Ausfahrt 6b+

The climb of the day had to be Ausfahrt 6b+, a route which caught my eye from the distance with a steep juggy start followed by more intricate climbing leading to a crack finish. Perhaps the only thing to spoil the route was the long run outs, but I think deep down I do get a bit of a buzz from that...


Poser 1 on Fallen slab arête 3



Poser 2 on Fallen slab arête 3



 The search for a campsite in Weymouth proved interesting, it would seem a certain campsite wouldn't take a van that was smaller than camper vans and tents unless we cut a window out, because it was commercial- do we look like gypsies? Ahh perhaps they judged us on all the holes in my climbing shorts, my scraggy hair and Paul's tattoos?! Anyhow we found a more accommodating campsite and although we had an air bed the experience confirmed to me that I was right. I cannot climb hard and camp, I need a warm bed and good sleep (oh and hot tea on tap). Not that I'd have changed the camping (What girl wouldn't want to boast "i slept with Paul in the back of a transit" lol), it was fun and an experience of how I've always imagined the hardcore climbers camp (of which I am clearly not one).



The climbing shack!

Day two I had insisted on going to the reptile smile area of Blacknor North as I'd read that the flow stone is the only of its type in the UK.

Reptile smile area, Paul on reptile Smile 6a

Both Paul and I were pretty tired and so we thought that was why the grading felt so hard. As the day went on and I warmed up I started to realise that it was more a case that this area has the hardest grading I've experienced anywhere in the world. I adapted to the attitude of forget the grade (and our egos) and just enjoy "lower grade" classics- which each felt at the top of my grade. I managed to get 10 routes in on day two which I was pleased with, ticking off a number of portland classic routes.




Paul leading through the roof of Indian Summer 6a



Me leading Megs got Leaukemia 6a

Day 3 and we were asking ourselves "how do we do this abroad every day" as we rushed to get to the crag first...This time we headed to east portland and used the nice easy approach to Neddyfields cliff. The routes here were pretty good and it was a relief to feel that the grading seemed a lot fairer than Blacknor North. After completing Lugwilers dismal itch 6c+, we felt satisfied after an impressive long weekends climbing and it was time for home and a comfy bed.



Pleased to have a clipstick on Portland for those very high first bolts

Day 1 

Blacknor south sacred angel area  

It's my life 5 

Imperfect 3 

Silent but deadly 6c+

Ausfahrt 6b+ 

How now brown cow 7a 

Talk 6a+

I love the smell of resin in the morning 6c

Pinning for gossip 7a 

Fallen slab arête 3

Day 2 

Blacknor north 

Greece paint and monkey brains 6a

Indian summer 6a !!!

Meg's got leukemia 6a 

Reptile smile 6a+ 

Talking smack 5+ 

Slings shot 5

Cake walk 6a

The tea  cake path  6b 

Mothers milk 6a 

Do you like our owls 6b

Day 3

Cheyne Wears Neddyfields Cliff

Inception 6a

Time of the month 6b

Ecosystem 6b

Lugwilers dismal itch 6c+