Llanymynech

We last went to Llanymynech 3 years ago and found the harder routes pretty tough. Our mission for this visit was to focus on the red wall and work some routes. Paul worked crab stick and will be looking for the red point next visit.  I was very thankful for Paul pushing me to get on to Poison Ivy- which I am pretty chuffed with managing to onsite. This was a great day for doing harder routes and one of the better of our climbing days out in terms of grade for some time. As much as I enjoy days climbing at any grade it was a good reminder today of the thrill from pushing yourself mentally on challenging routes.


Me on the tricky start moves of crab stick, 6c

Paul leading crab stick at the crux

Me leading Lobster on the loose 7a,

Paul on lobster on the loose, 7a



Paul lowering off Lobster on the loose, 7a

Paul climbing the day of the trifidd, 6b-the line of poison ivy to the left

Warm up on Nomad wall
Dentine, 5c
Pull em out, 6a

Red wall
Lobster on the loose, 7a
I saw three ships, 6c+
Crab stick, 6c
Poison Ivy, 7a+ (one of the hardest onsites I've achieved in the UK)
The day of the triffids, 6b

Portland 2016

There was no way we were going to let the good weather pass us by this week and we ended up on a last minute trip down to Portland. It far exceeded expectations from previous visits-probably helped by a nice bed and cooked breakfasts versus sleeping in the back of a van! We were blessed with the weather and even on the really windy day we found sanctuary at the cuttings. This trip rather than push the grade I wanted to seek out some of the islands classic routes to enjoy such as the biggest arête on the island-pregnant pause. That said I did manage a nice 6c onsite that I couldn't resist at the cuttings.

 



Flexing the biceps on fall slab arete



Selfie from the top of fallen down arete

Warming up at the cuttings

Paul at the top of the wonderful crack climb, Consomme 6a+

Me leading up New saladin 6c, hardest onsite of the trip

Me leading up bag end 5+ a great little adventure climb especially in the wind

Paul on Monsoon malabar, 6a about to do the move of the climb

Me leading the climb of the trip-the exposed pregnant pause-6a+

Fantastic blue skies and wonderful west coast cliff backdrop

 

Day 1

Blacknor South area
unknown route to start
Fallen slab 3+
Fallen slab arête, 4?
La ...Casse, 6a+
Losing my sad tomato, 6b+
Six good biceps, 4
Day 2
The cuttings
Three fingers 6a
Opus, 4
Rusty the red kneck takes one for the team, 6a+
Consomme 6a+
New saladin 6c
Want out, 7b TR
Chips with everything, 4+
Well done Popper 5a
Day 5
Blacknor Central
When this hits the fan 6b+
Shit happens 6a
Bag end 5+
Monsoon Malabar 6a
Pregnant pause 6a+
Valerian 6a