Leading ladder 2009

For the first time I decided to try the leading ladder.  I qualified and was bumped up to the recreational category for the final in Sheffield at the Foundry.  It was my first real leading competition and it was a good experience but I found that i got unneccesarily nervous which was fustrating.  I came third though and with a prize of a guidebook for Portland I was very happy!

Leading on the 7b route just before I took a whipper

Lord Rootes Fund: Rock climbing in Thailand

During the second year of my PhD I applied for a pot a money available from the Lords Rootes fund at Uni (Warwick) to go and climb in Thailand.  The whole idea of the fund was to pursue something non-academic that you are interested in, and although I couldnt see projects from other years relating to sport or rock climbing I thought it was still worth a shot.  After an extensive application form and interview in front of the biggest panel I had ever experienced I was given the funds!!!

I booked my flight and was off for 3 weeks, unfortunately my first flight was delayed by a day and so I missed my internal flights to Chiang Mai, so I headed straight to Krabi province instead.

I arrived at tonsai early in the morning and got myself straight on a boat to the DWS.  This was my first experience of DWS -not a bad place to start!

I was a bit unsure where any of the routes went!

I was suprised how high some of the routes went and on day 1 i was reluctant to fall off...

The following days I met up with a Canadian partner for a day, and then Ian from Reading, and Mark from New Zealand who I spent the next 3 weeks climbing all over the tonsai/railey area with.

The team!

The biggets adjustment to the climbing in Thailand was the heat and humidity, we were there during the hottest day of the year where temperatures reached 45 degrees.  We spent most of our time focusing on single-pitch mileage during this trip rather than pushing the grades. It was great to spend time in the jungle and on sea cliffs. 

Old snake 6b:We hired a kayak to get across the bay to Easle wall some isolated routes in the jungle, lots mosquitoes...

A memorable tricky route at Wee's present wall, Monkey crying 6b+

Abseiling off a multipitch the beauty and the beat, a+ at Monkey world -what a view!

Mark and I did a few multipitches together, the most memorable of which were orange chandeliers(6a+,6b, 6c) on Ao nang tower (a sea stack between Ao nang and Tonsai) and the 5-pitch route humanality up the huge cliff which overlooks tonsai beach.

Ao nang tower required a taxi boat to the sea stack which waited for us whilst we climbed.  We then abseiled back down the route to the boat - with thunder and lighting and winds around us at the end of the route this made things a bit tricky.

Mark abseiling off Tonsai tower to the awaiting taxi boat

The three weeks in Krabi was a great unforgettable experience to clock up the miles and develop my experience and confidence in sport climbing - and it was all about onsighting routes.   It was nice to return to Krabi since I had stopped over two-years previously and I wanted to return strong so I could climb all the fantastic routes on offer.  It was nice that I had achieved this sooner than I expected.

SUIBL

Over 2007-2009 I was part of the uni SUIBL team with four competition rounds held at different walls.  I was fortunate to be part of a team with Jonny and Dave which won overall in the first year (07/08), I managed to win one round and i think i came second in a few and a third and fourth place at some rounds.  Although bouldering isnt my preffered form of climbing it was good to train to be more powerful and nice to experience different types of routes around the country.

Undercover rock, TCA

Defying gravity...TCA, Bristol

Cant remember which wall this was

Undercover rock, Bristol

The A team, at Undercover rock, Bristol

A day at the roaches upper tier

In 2007 I mainly trained with Rich Storr, we made a good partnership and he pushed me alot, especially on trad.

Rich and I gearing up ready to go

We went to the roaches and stanage trying to clock up my mileage on trad ready for my SPA assesment.

Jeffcoats Buttress 4c: Split into two pitches I lead the first pitch



Damascas crack, HS 4b



The Sloth

Costa blanca

My biggest first outdoor sport trips were to the costa blanca and with cheap flights during 2007 I think we made about 3 trips in the one year!  I went as part of the Uni climbing trip staying at the orange house in Finestrat on the first trip - camping with Janine.  This was were Janines first experience of climbing on rock and we kept the grades pretty low as we adjusted to the rock and exposure, climbing up to 6a. Janines progression on to real rock was impresive and was confident enough to give things a good go.  Although I think the first trip will be remembered for the driving as much as anything, our teams driver Leona was fearless and at one point the car was on three wheels!  It as nice to be on a club as part of the club to share the holiday and to enjoy the bar in finestrat together, trying not to be too rowdy...

First route at Sella

Armed with out chocolate croissants baguettes and salami we visited a good few crags including Sella, Gandia, and our favourite was probably Sierra de toix.  On one visit we climbed at a crag near Murcia (can't remember thename but it was pebbly rock) - but we got lost and missed our flight - not too bad to get an extra day of sun though :)

Gandia: Must do route through the tube



Another great corner route at Gandia



Rest day on the beach and still climbing.